Welcome to the heart of Gargano in Puglia in Italy, a region renowned for the excellence of high-quality Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO).
Extra Virgin Olive Oil is not just a condiment, but a true lifestyle, deeply rooted in the centuries-old culture, tradition, and history of the territory. A jewel of the Mediterranean diet that represents one of Puglia’s food excellences, appreciated for its beneficial properties and its unique and authentic flavor.
If you are staying in our vacation homes in Carpino (FG), you are in the ideal location to discover the true ‘liquid gold.’ This guide will accompany you in discovering the various facets of Extra Virgin Olive Oil – EVOO – with a special focus on our beloved Gargano land.
Definition and Classification: What Makes EVOO “Extra Virgin”?
The definition of Extra Virgin Olive Oil – EVOO – is protected by stringent legislation that aims to guarantee quality and transparency for the consumer.
According to European Union Regulations—specifically EU No. 1308/2013 and Regulation No. 2569/91 and its subsequent updates, Regulation No. 2022/2104, and also Implementing Regulation No. 2022/2105—the set of physico-chemical and organoleptic (sensory) criteria that must be met to achieve the Extra Virgin classification are outlined and defined.
To standardize the classification of various types of olive oil across all member states, the European Union has established the use of physico-chemical analysis methods and organoleptic evaluation defined by the International Olive Council (IOC), of which it is a member.
The definition is based on the following key parameters:
Method of extraction
Extra Virgin Olive Oil must be obtained exclusively by mechanical processes or other physical means that do not alter the product.
It must come from the first pressing with a control over the processing temperature. Generally, the olives are processed at a temperature below 27°C (80.6°F), defined on the label as ‘spremitura a freddo’ (cold pressing).
The permitted processing steps are washing, crushing (milling), malaxation (kneading), centrifugation, decantation, and filtration. Solvents or chemical refining processes are not permitted.
Physico-Chemical Parameters
To guarantee the freshness of the product and the absence of defects or adulteration (sophistication), analyses are performed on the peroxide value, the quantity of waxes, the alkyl esters, UV absorption (K232) and (K270), etc.
The best-known analysis concerns the acidity of Extra Virgin Olive Oil, expressed as free oleic acid, which must not exceed 0.80%.
The percentage data on the acidity of an olive oil often creates confusion among consumers. The evaluation is performed exclusively through analysis with chemical reagents; the human palate is unable to perceive or distinguish it in any way or condition.
Organoleptic (Sensory) Parameters
To obtain the Extra Virgin Olive Oil classification, it is necessary to pass a sensory analysis, known as the Panel Test, conducted by certified professional tasters.
- Total absence of defects: when tasted, the oil sample must not present any defects (e.g., rancid, fusty/winey, muddy sediment, etc.).
- Median of Defects (Md): must be equal to zero (Md=0).
- Presence of Fruitiness: the olfactory sensation of fruitiness must be present, with a median of fruitiness (Mf) greater than zero (Mf>0).
We can say that Extra Virgin Olive Oil is the natural juice of the olive fruit, obtained through mechanical processes at a controlled temperature to preserve all the beneficial properties, the aromatic notes, and the characteristic flavor of the fresh fruit, while respecting the rigorous quality parameters required by law.
DOP, IGP, and Organic Olive Oil: Guarantees of Quality
Protections for the consumer and a valuable tool for enhancing local cultivation, accompanied by the respective production or regulations.
- DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta): (en. Protected Designation of Origin) This is the most stringent of the certifications. It guarantees that all production phases—starting from the olive harvest, milling at the oil press (frantoio), to packaging and bottling—must take place within a clear and expressly specified delimited geographical area. Thanks to the use of individual production specifications (or regulations), the native varieties are also protected and enhanced for their authenticity. An example here is the DOP Dauno Gargano production specification, a recognition that promotes the cultivation of the ‘Ogliarola Garganica’ cultivar.
- IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta): (en. Protected Geographical Indication) Less stringent than DOP. It requires that at least one of the phases involved in the production process must take place in the indicated areas. The IGP indication often refers to wider territories.
Regulation (EU) 2024/1143 of the European Parliament on geographical indications.
Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil
The wording ‘Organic’ on labels, accompanied by the European green leaf logo, guarantees that the extra virgin olive oil adheres to a production specification (or regulations) and follows its practices, avoiding the use of pesticides, herbicides, or synthetic chemical fertilizers.
In addition to adhering to a strict set of regulations, producers are subjected to annual checks and inspections in the fields and also at the oil mill (frantoio) regarding the oil produced from the pressing of the olives.
The organic production or regulations aims to promote environmental sustainability and guarantee a product free of chemical residues.
Olive Heritage: Cultivars Worldwide and Our ‘Ogliarola Garganica’
Determining the exact number of olive varieties (cultivars) is a complicated project because many varieties are called by different names—local synonyms—based on the geographical area where they are grown, and also due to the many instances of homonymy (the same name, for example ‘Ogliarola…’, being attributed to different cultivars). It is estimated that there are between 1,000 and 1,500 olive cultivars worldwide.
Italy is the country in the world that holds the largest heritage of olive varieties (cultivars), with approximately 500 distributed across the territory, many of which are protected by DOP and IGP certifications.
An extraordinary richness of choice in intensity and flavor that accompanies and has influenced the regional cuisines.
Very important classification and cataloging work on the various olive cultivars has been carried out over the years by the IOC (International Olive Council) Cultivar Catalogue.
At the Italian level, the Amap and Ibe have created the Banca dati degli Oli Monovarietali Italiani (en Italian Monovarietal Oils Database), a well-structured, constantly updated work that allows users to search by: Variety (Cultivar), Italian region, and sensory profile.
This is a useful tool that allows you to explore the world of Italian extra virgin olive oil varieties, accompanied by clear and easily accessible data, such as the sensory map represented as a graph, which is easy to interpret and compare across different varieties (Cultivars). Here is the example for the ‘Ogliarola Garganica’ variety (Cultivar).
The 5 most widely used Olive Varieties (Cultivar) for intensive cultivation.
To meet the demands of the global market, several olive varieties have been selected that are suitable for intensive cultivation. These include: Picual, which alone accounts for about 25% of global production, Arbequina, Koroneiki, Frantoio, and Hojiblanca. A good portion of the extra virgin olive oils found on supermarket shelves is produced with at least one of these varieties, which are grown in Europe and also in non-EU countries.
These varieties are suitable for intensive and super-high density cultivation of plants per hectare, with characteristics that facilitate mechanization:
- Reduced Vigor and Compact Habit: Controlled growth is necessary to allow for the use of over-the-row harvesters (similar to those used for grapes).
- Rapid Entry into Production: To amortize the investment of the intensive orchard, varieties are chosen that can start producing early, often within 2–3 years.
- High and Consistent Productivity: High and steady production is essential, reducing the olive tree’s natural tendency toward alternate bearing (alternating between years of heavy and light yields)..
- Ease of Fruit Detachment: During harvest, the olives must easily detach from the branch with mechanical vibration, without excessively damaging the plant or the fruit.
- Resistance to Stress and Disease: Given the high intensity and high density of plants per hectare present in the orchard, adequate plant resistance to stress and disease is necessary
- Oil Quality: Despite the intensive nature of production, the oil must meet the quality and organoleptic standards required by the market.
The EVOO Tasting Technique: Learn to Distinguish Attributes and Defects (Panel Test)
The tasting technique, formally defined as the organoleptic assessment procedure, is a method of analysis that utilizes a systematic and repeatable approach. European Union regulations adopt the guidelines drafted by the IOC (International Olive Council) for the ‘Sensory Analysis of Olive Oil’.
In order to fully appreciate all the characteristics of extra virgin olive oil, it is necessary to adopt at least the fundamental best practices used by professional tasters in panel tests.
Do not smoke for at least 30 minutes before tasting, do not eat anything in the hour preceding, and do not wear perfumes, cosmetics, or use soaps with a persistent fragrance.
The main tool that will help us in this analysis is the tasting glass.
The characteristics of the glass used for the organoleptic analysis (odor, taste, flavor) are standardized by the IOC (International Olive Council) in the ‘Glass for Oil Tasting’ document. Its particular shape allows it to be placed in heating plates during panel tests and to absorb heat from the taster’s palm.
The glass for tasting Extra Virgin Olive Oil is dark in color, to prevent the taster from being influenced or having prejudices.
The color of an Extra Virgin Olive Oil does not provide any direct indication of the product’s quality; it varies depending on the olive variety (cultivar) and the degree of ripeness at the time of harvest. Early harvesting (still green olives) maximizes the concentration of chlorophylls, which confer the green color, and is usually associated with a higher number of polyphenols (notes of bitterness and pungency). Late harvesting (black olives) favors the accumulation of carotenoids, which give yellower and golden hues, resulting in a sweeter oil. The extraction process can also influence the color: more energetic crushing can extract more pigment from the skins, intensifying the color.
If you don’t have the official tasting glass, you can use a small coffee cup, for instance; the important thing is that it has a thin wall so that it can be warmed by the heat of your palm and kept covered until the moment of tasting.
How to Perform the Olfactory Assessment of Extra Virgin Olive Oil:
- Pour about 15 ml (or 0.5 fluid ounces) of Extra Virgin Olive Oil into the glass, which is approximately one full tablespoon.
- Keep the glass covered with a small lid while you proceed to warm it with the palm of your hand.
- Lift the lid and smell the sample, taking slow, deep inspirations. Search for the ‘fruity’ sensation in the olfactory notes, which is characteristic of oils obtained from sound (healthy) olives.
You will be able to perceive the ‘fruity’ sensation in the various intensities that characterize the cultivar you are tasting. The ‘fruity’ sensation can also be influenced by the harvest period: ‘green fruitiness’ or ‘ripe fruitiness’.
In the olfactory test, great attention must be paid to the presence of defects such as rancid, winey/vinegary, musty, sludge (or sediment), heated/fusty, and others.
Two insights that will enhance your knowledge and ability to taste Extra Virgin Olive Oil:
- IOC Sensory Analysis: General Vocabulary: definition of the general concepts used for the sensory analysis of olive oil.
- IOC Sensory Analysis: Specific Vocabulary for Virgin Olive Oil: the fourth paragraph provides a description of the positive attributes, as well as the negative attributes, with a clear and concise explanation.
How to Test the Olfactory-Gustatory Sensations of Extra Virgin Olive Oil:
- Take a small sip of Extra Virgin Olive Oil and distribute the oil throughout the entire oral cavity. The perception of flavor sensations and tactile sensations, such as astringency and pungency, varies in intensity on the tongue, palate, and in the throat.
- To better appreciate and distinguish the sensations, you must slowly spread the oil throughout the mouth: from the front of the tongue, then the sides of the tongue to perceive any astringent sensations, the back of the tongue to perceive the bitter taste, and finally reaching the throat and palate where the sensation of pungency will be perceived.
- Short, successive aspirations with slightly parted lips allow the sample to spread within the oral cavity and enable the perception of the volatile aromatic components through retronasal sensations, such as artichoke, tomato, almond, aromatic herbs, and others.
Pairing Guide: How to Use Extra Virgin Olive Oil for Every Dish
As a general rule, we can say that delicate foods require delicate oils, while structured foods require structured oils. The Extra Virgin Olive Oil should accompany the dish in a harmonious and coherent way.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil – Low Fruitiness (Delicate/Mild)
Delicate sensory profile with notes of fresh almond, a slight hint of fresh grass, and nearly imperceptible bitterness and pungency.
Representative Cultivars: Ogliarola Barese, Cellina di Nardò, Taggiasca, Biancolilla.
Ideal Pairings:
- Appetizers: Green salads, cheeses (stracciatella, mozzarella, ricotta) ;
- First Courses: Plain pasta, pasta with sweet vegetables (zucchini, peas, artichokes, ..), delicate risottos, creamed vegetable soups (velouté);
- Main Courses: White fish, white meats (chicken, rabbit), boiled or steamed;
- Side Dishes: Homemade mayonnaise, fennel and orange salad, baked goods (substituting butter);
- Bread and raw food: Plain focaccia, pinzimonio (raw vegetables dipped in oil), bruschetta with fresh tomato.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil – Medium Fruitiness
The sensory profile presents herbaceous notes, almond, artichoke, cut grass, light hints of tomato, and aromatic herbs. The sensations of bitterness and pungency are balanced.
Representative Cultivars: Coratina, Leccino, Frantoio, Nocellara Messinese, Ogliarola Garganica.
Ideal Pairings:
- Appetizers: Legumes in salad, meat or fish tartares and carpaccios, semi-aged cheeses;
- First Courses: Orecchiette with cime di rapa (turnip greens), pasta with tomato sauce, fish stews (zuppe), creamed vegetable soups, veloutés;
- Main Courses: Sautéed white meats, moderately lean red meats, roasted octopus, grilled fish, Carpino Fava Beans (Slow Food Presidium) and chicory;
- Side Dishes: Sautéed vegetables, baked potatoes, tomato and arugula salad;
- Bread and raw food: Pizza and focaccia, bruschetta with roasted vegetables, friselle Pugliese with tomato and coarse salt.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil – Intense Fruitiness (Robust)
Sensory profile with pronounced olfactory notes of artichoke, green tomato, freshly cut grass, and a strong, persistent bitter and pungent sensation in the throat.
Representative Cultivars: Coratina, Peranzana, Bosana, Moraiolo.
Ideal Pairings:
- Appetizers: Bruschetta with homemade bread and bitter greens (chicory, turnip greens), aged cheeses (pecorino, Parmigiano Reggiano, Grana Padano);
- First Courses: Pappardelle with ragù (meat sauce), game dishes (wild game);
- Main Courses: Grilled or roasted red meats, seared tuna, game, offal (organ meats);
- Side Dishes: Sautéed greens;
- Bread and raw food: Pugliese durum wheat bread, bruschetta with cooked tomato and oregano, and raw seasoning (finishing oil) on robust dishes.
The True Value: Why Quality EVOO Cannot Cost €3 per Liter (approx. $3.27 USD per 33.8 fl oz).
One of the most common dilemmas concerns the large price difference between an Extra Virgin Olive Oil purchased directly from a farm (or producer) and an Extra Virgin Olive Oil bought on supermarket shelves.
The answer lies in the production costs and the quality of the final product.
Where to find official data on Extra Virgin Olive Oil prices?
The true cost of producing Extra Virgin Olive Oil varies annually based on several factors, such as climate, adverse weather conditions, labor costs, and the percentage of oil obtained in terms of final processing yield during the olive crushing.
Official sources such as ISMEA (Institute of Services for the Agricultural Food Market) and reports from local Chambers of Commerce (e.g., the Foggia Camera di Commercio) periodically publish estimates and averages of production costs.
- The Average Cost (Estimate): For a 100% Italian, medium-quality Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO), the production cost often falls between €6/liter and €9/liter (approximately $6.54 to $9.81 per 33.8 fl oz). This covers only the direct expenses (operating and campaign administration costs, olive harvesting costs, labor, storage costs in large tanks), and does not yet account for the cost of bottling and labeling, marketing, distribution, or the producer’s profit margin
Why Does the Supermarket Sell Extra Virgin Olive Oil at Low Prices?
The oil sold on shelves for €3/liter or €4/liter (approximately $3.27 to $4.36 per 33.8 fl oz) is almost always the result of:
- Blending (Blend): It is often a blend of EU and non-EU oils (Spain, Greece, Turkey, etc.), purchased wholesale at lower prices;
- Guaranteed Minimum Quality: By meeting the maximum legal thresholds set for the physico-chemical analysis parameters, and the 0.8% maximum acidity level, this results in a product with an absence of defects and sufficient organoleptic sensations for commercial classification;
- Price War: Large retailers often use Extra Virgin Olive Oil – EVOO as a ‘loss leader’ in advertising flyers to attract customers, sacrificing profit margins.
Tips for Purchasing and Storing Extra Virgin Olive Oil
How to Ensure Extra Virgin Olive Oil is Stored Correctly and Maintains Its Organoleptic and Health Characteristics?
- The Enemies of Olive Oil (Factors that Degrade Quality):
- Light: It’s better to choose bottles with dark glass, or tins/cans;
- Heat: The optimal storage temperature is between 13 and 25 degrees Celsius (55 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit);
- Air: Keep the extra virgin olive oil in tightly closed and sealed containers; contact with air promotes product oxidation;
- Odors: Store the extra virgin olive oil away from foods, beverages, or products that emit a strong fragrance or smell, because it will tend to absorb them.
- Suitable Container: Dark glass bottles or tins/cans, which should always be kept tightly closed. Avoid plastic;
- Expiration Date (Best Before): Extra Virgin Olive Oil must be consumed fresh! On the labels, you will find the designation ‘best before’ usually within 18 months from production. Purchase an amount of oil that you know you will be able to consume in time;
- Buy Local: During your vacations, visit local producers and olive mills (frantoi). This is the best way to get a fresh, traceable, and high-quality product. Discover new olive varieties (Cultivars) in the places you visit. Italy has the world’s largest heritage of olive varieties (Cultivars), over 500, and many of them have Protected Geographical Indications – DOP – IGP.
Useful Link: IOC (International Olive Council) – Consumer Guide to Storing Olive Oils.
Complete Your EVOO Experience: Stay in Gargano’s Heart in Puglia
A full immersion into the world of Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO) requires experiencing the land and its culture directly. We offer the opportunity to discover the olive harvest (October to January) and the milling process, providing an authentic Food & Wine Tourism experience in Gargano.
Our Vacation Rentals in Carpino (FG), Puglia serve as the ideal logistical base, perfect for slow travelers, gastronomy enthusiasts, and those seeking an authentic space for Remote Work or a Digital Nomad lifestyle.
Take advantage of our flexible short-term rentals, available throughout the year. We look forward to offering you the unique feeling of being home, away from home.